Having a good credit score is more important today than it has ever been. A good credit score can save you literally thousands of dollars in costs and interest over the course of your lifetime. Just ordering car insurance, for example, can cost you as much as 143% more in premium payments over someone with a good credit score.

Others rely on your credit reports as well. They use it as an indicator of how well you handle  your finances and your responsibilities. There is a very good chance that your credit report may be pulled anytime you fill out a rental application. Also, when you try to buy or upgrade a cell phone. You can probably get either, but expect to pay a heavy deposit if your credit scores are less than stellar.

Even employers are starting to rely on credit histories in the application process, as a measurement of how reliable a prospective employee will be. The same is true if you are being considered for advancement at your current employer.

Regardless of what your credit scores look like today, there is no time like the present to begin working on improving them. The good news is… lenders put the most weight on your current scores, and how you are handling your credit responsibilities now. So no matter how bad your scores are today… there is no where to go but up.

Lenders, and others that check your scores, are interested in the likelihood that you will be a responsible citizen in the handling of your debts and responsibilities. Your credit scores are one measure they use to determine that.

Your scores are compiled by Fair Isaac Corporation (FICO), according to different weights they assign to different aspects of how you handle credit. I.E., how much debt you carry in relation to your income, how timely you pay your bills, the ratio of the credit you use compared to the credit you have available to use, how long you have managed credit, the different types of credit you have had (credit cards, car loans, home loans, etc), and how often and how much new credit you apply for.

The best score possible is 850 points, which probably no one ever achieves. A score of 800 would be exceptionally good, and probably the most anyone could ever hope for. Realistically, most people fall in the 700 to 725 range, which used to be considered excellent, and would qualify you for the best interest rates. However, in today’s troubled times; a score of 750 would more likely be required to get the best interest rate and terms.

If your scores are around 650 or lower, expect to pay a much higher interest rate. If they are below 600, you may have trouble getting any kind of loan, except from a “predatory lender” that deals in sub-prime lending. But be forewarned… you won’t like the interest rate you’ll have to pay to get one of those loans.

If your credit scores are less than acceptable, and you are ready to take steps to improve them, rest assured that you can raise your scores quicker than you might have thought. The best advice I can give you is to use the tips, guidance, and wisdom of someone who knows how the credit system works, and what you can do to raise your scores fast.

A couple of years ago my credit stunk, really bad. A business associate recommended that I purchase a self-help credit repair manual written by Terry Price. Terry has been described as being the foremost authority on credit repair, that can be found anywhere on the internet. Following his tips and suggestions, I was able to raise my scores from 520 to 719 in 90 days. It was easy to do and it worked great for me. The cost was low and the results were fast and amazing.

You can learn more about Terry’s approach to improving your credit scores here. Check it out! You may be glad you did.

Then and Now

Not so long ago, a credit score of 620 was OK; not great, maybe, but good enough to get you a decent loan almost anywhere without a penalty. By early 2008, that same loan would need a 680 score to qualify. Then in April, the qualifying score for that same loan jumped to 720 and then again to 740 in August.

Gone are the days when a score of 700 or higher would get a thumbs-up from credit lenders. Now, interest rate adjustments begin increasing when scores drop to 740, and every 20-point drop in your credit score after that adds another upward rate adjustment.

People who took pride in their credit scores in days gone by must either pay significantly higher interest rates now, or try to make quick changes to nudge their scores upward. What used to be a great credit score is now only fair. For those wanting to refinance their homes, what would have worked a year ago might not make much sense today.

Virtually anyone can increase their FICO scores. Here’s how:

1. Discover where things went wrong. You should know your credit score. If you don’t, get your scores from the three reporting bureaus. Analyze the three credit reports to look for errors that may be causing you problems.

2. Fix the mistakes. You can do it yourself, or, lenders sometimes offer their services to help applicants increase their scores when inaccuracies are found and you can prove the error.

3. Reduce percentages of credit limit used. Either pay down credit balances or increase your credit limits. Keep credit balances under 30 percent of your available limit. It is not uncommon for people to increase their credit scores 90 to 100 points by paying off one or two credit cards.

4. Park the debt. If one spouse has income that could qualify on their own, move accounts around and transfer some of the debt to the other spouse’s name.

5. Consider using a rapid rescore. A rapid rescore is the fast way to find out if your efforts to improve your credit score were successful or not. Your lender can help you. They will work with a rescoring company on your behalf. It will take around a week to get the results back, but it may get your loan going again. The bad news is, it can cost several hundred dollars to do.

Anyone contemplating a refinance or a new mortgage anytime within the next year or so should start working on getting the ideal credit score now.

Terry Price has been working in the credit repair field since 1994, and is an expert in guiding people through the credit repair maze. His book, “Credit Secrets Bible” is considered by many to be the definitive guide in showing people how to legally, quickly and easily repair their own credit reports. His students routinely raise their credit scores by 100 to 200 points by following his methods.

Terry’s book is written in an easy to understand format, with example after example to explain each step of the process Terry says that even a fifth grader could follow it with no problem.

Get this wrong and you’ll get nowhere fast!
Find answers here!

It’s not uncommon for one collection agency to sell an account to another agency, when they have been unsuccessful in collecting the debt. So the history and status of a collection account can become blurred, distorted or lost over time.

In some cases, a collection agency will attempt to collect on a debt that has already being paid or one that was discharged in bankruptcy. Or, you may be contacted about a debt that does not belong to you, or one with an amount different from what you actually owe.

Validation Means Proof

Before you pay a collection agency any money, you should validate the debt. Essentially, validation proves that you did have a legal contract with the original lender, that you do owe the amount the collection agency says you owe, and it is confirmed that the collection agency is authorized by the creditor to collect the debt.

How to Validate

When a collection agency takes over your account, they will first mail you a written notification of their intent to collect on the debt. In that initial mailing, you should be provided with instructions on how to request validation of the debt from them.

Put your validation request in writing and mail it to the collection agency by certified mail within 30 days of receiving their notification. The agency then has 30 days to provide you with proof that:

• They have been authorized by the creditor to collect the debt
• You had a legal contract with the original creditor (usually a copy of the original contract)
• You owe the amount they are requesting

If the collection agency does provide the evidence listed above within the 30 day time line, you will be obligated for the debt, and they are allowed to proceed with the collection within the limits of the law.

If they do not provide you with this proof within 30 days, they are required by the 1978 Fair Debt Collection Practice Act (FDCPA) to cancel the debt and discontinue collection proceedings against you.

If they do not respond to your validation request, but continue to attempt the collection of the debt, your next step is to submit a written letter to the three major credit bureaus – Experian, TransUnion, and Equifax – explaining that you are disputing the collection activities of the agency. Also, send notification to the agency alerting them that they have violated the FDCPA and that you will take further legal action if they do not cease their collection activities.

Remember you only have 30 days from your receipt of the original notification to request validation of the debt. If you wait past the deadline, the debt will be considered valid and you will be required to pay it

Go here for an expert’s advice on the best way to validate your credit files.

Negotiations

One mistake some borrowers make in negotiating with debt collectors is, they attempt to elicit sympathy from the collector on the phone. Realize that debt collectors hear these stories every day and are rarely moved. They are just doing their job. Instead, stick to the subject at hand and remain unemotional. You will be in a much better bargaining position if they see you are remaining composed and unruffled as you work with them.

The age of the debt will be a factor in your attempt to reach a satisfactory agreement with the collector. For example, if a credit card company debt of $2,000 is two years old, you may be able to settle the debt for 50% of the balance, or $1,000. If the debt is older, you may be able to settle for 25 to 30% of the balance.

Debt collectors are unlikely to take your first offer but these targets are a good starting point. Knowing that the first offer may be refused, a skilled negotiator might start even lower, and then allow themselves to be “talked up” into their target goal.

The above examples are for a discounted payoff of a debt. You may also negotiate for a lower interest rate, longer payment term, a reduced balance of the debt, or any combination of those terms. When an account is so bad that it has gone to collection, all things are negotiable.

Post-Negotiations

Once you have reached an agreement over the phone, you should immediately write down (in letter format) the specific arrangements you agreed to. Be sure to include the name of the person you spoke with, and the date and time of the call. Sign the letter and send it to the debt collection agency via certified mail so you will have proof the letter was mailed and received by them. Keep a copy for yourself as well.

Having something in writing will protect you in case there is a future dispute over the terms or in case a different agent from the firm attempts to contact you.

Date of Last Activity

As a side note, many people believe that settling an old debt like this will remove it from their credit record. However, the law says that a collection debt can stay on your record for up to seven years from the date of last activity. Since paying off the old debt becomes a new activity, the debt will remain on your credit record for seven years from the date of payoff.

The same is true if you negotiate an agreement that calls for making monthly payments. The last activity on the account will be the day you make your last payment, and the seven year clock will start from that date

Become a negotiating pro with these tips. Get your way every time!

Average Credit Scores – How Do You Measure Up?

Lenders use average credit scores as a guide when evaluating the level of risk a borrower represents when they apply for new, additional, or extended lines of credit. In other words, how does the applicant measure up against others with their history of credit management?

Credit scores can fall anywhere between a low of 300 to a high of 850 points. According to the Fair Isaac Corporation (FICO) the median credit score is 723 points (half of scores above and half of scores below). According to credit bureau Experian, average credit scores are 678.

Most lenders rely on the Fair Isaac Corporation (FICO) score model, not the Experian model. Even though the Fair Isaac Corporation model uses median credit scores in their calculations, the result of 723 is commonly or mistakenly referred to as average credit scores.

Sixty percent (60%) of the U. S. population have credit scores that fall between 650 and 799. Approximately 13% have average credit scores above 800.

Below is a ranking of credit score ranges and how FICO scores impact lender decisions.

• 750 to 850 – Very High – Individuals in this range will easily be approved for credit and will pay the lowest interest rates.
• 720 to 749 – High – These scores are still considered indicators of a good credit risk. Interest rates may be slightly higher than for the “very high” scores.
• 700 to 719 – Good – Scores in this range qualify for credit but may pay somewhat higher interest rates.
• 500 to 699 – Low – If your credit scores fall in this range, you will end up paying more in interest than someone in the above categories for the same loan. You may still be able to get credit but it will cost you more.
• 350 to 499 – Very Low – If your credit score is under 500, you stand an excellent chance of being rejected for credit. If you are approved, you will have to pay the highest interest rates.

As you can see, if your average credit scores are 720 or higher, you are in good standing with lenders, and should have no trouble qualifying for credit. The further you drop below 720, the more trouble you will have getting credit, and the more you will pay in interest when you do get it.

If low FICO scores are keeping you from getting the credit you want, see how lots of people just like you have raised their FICO scores 100 to 200 points and more in a short period of time. You can too!

Start Rebuilding Your Credit Score Today!

Homes in some areas are selling for as much as 80% off 2005 prices. And the general consensus is, it will probably get worse. Many knowledgeable experts expect current home prices to drop at least another 11% by the end of 2011.

You May Be Saying; “What’s that got to do with me”?

SIMPLE: About once every 35 or 40 years there’s an opportunity for someone (like you) to buy a home at an absolute STEAL. But you need to have your credit scores in line or you’re going to miss the boat.

Here’s What’s Happening, And How It Affects You

We are in the middle of the worst housing crises this country has seen since the great depression. And it is bot getting any better. It began when subprime borrowers started defaulting on their loans.

But if you think subprime lending was a mess, are you familiar with ALT-A lending? These were the Option ARM, Stated Income, 125% Loan-To-Value, and other types of “Exotic Loans” that were so popular in 2005, 2006, and 2007.

ALT-A Loans represent 1.5 TRILLION dollars of home loans. ALT-A loans are even more of a mess than subprime loans. ALT-A loans were generally made on more expensive properties and by wealthier people with great credit scores. But when these loans started going upside down (no equity), the borrowers would just walk away when the loans reset to higher payments.

After all, if the borrower had $50,000 to $200,000 dollars in the bank, and a good credit score, they weren’t too concerned about the consequences of defaulting on their loans. Unlike the subprime borrowers with no cash or credit to back them up, the ALT-A borrower could rebound quickly from a foreclosure on their record and purchase another home.

The First Sign Of Trouble

The first sign that subprime loans were in trouble was when 14% of subprime loans were in default. Now, since the first quarter of 2009, 14% of ALT-A loans are in default.

There were a total of 500,000 subprime loans made. Compare that with a total of 750,000 ALT-A loans made. (50% more). The majority of subprime loans averaged $200,000, while the majority of ALT-A loans averaged $400,000. That means there were half again as many ALT-A loans which are double the average loan amounts of the subprime loans.

Many financial experts rightfully predicted that ALT-A defaults would start hitting big time around JUNE / JULY / AUG of 2010. They also predicted that those defaults would continue through 2011 or even until mid 2012. If they are right (and so far it looks like they are) the worst is yet to come.

When Opportunity Meets Preparedness

However, as bad as it is, the housing crises has created an opportunity for you to purchase your “dream home” at a severe discount… but only if you are prepared! And NO! It does NOT matter what your credit scores are like today!

Start Rebuilding Your Credit Score Today

When you begin applying for financing, lenders always place the most weight on the last 12 to 18 months of your credit history.

SO, maybe the smart thing to do would be to start working on rebuilding your credit history today, so it will be there when you need it a few months from now. And, there’s never been a better way to clean up your credit scores fast, than by using the ideas and methods you can find here.

Plan ahead. The future belongs to those who are ready for it!

How Long Do Derogatory Items Remain On Public Record?

Everything you do that effects your credit winds up on your credit report. There are no limits as to how long favorable credit history can stay on public record. As a result, good information on your report can and does remain on public record for many years.

However, derogatory information on your credit report is limited by law as to how long it may stay on public record. The Fair Credit Reporting Act (FCRA) was passed in 1971. The law, among other things, set limits for how long negative information could be reported.

Foreclosure

When you are not able to make payments on a home loan, the lender will take back the property used to secure that loan. This is known as a foreclosure proceeding. Foreclosures remain on your credit report for up to 7 years.

Bankruptcy

A bankruptcy can be either a Chapter 13, which is sometimes referred to as a bill payer bankruptcy, or a Chapter 7, which is a total debt elimination bankruptcy.

A Chapter 13 bankruptcy can be reported for up to 10 years by law, but typically they are removed after 7 years from the date of discharge. The reason is that lenders prefer to receive some money for their debt, rather than none. By dangling the carrot of less time for the bankruptcy to remain on their credit report, the chance of the Chapter 13 being successfully completed is improved by telling creditors it will only be reported 7 years.

A Chapter 7 bankruptcy can be reported up to 10 years from the date of discharge.

Late Payments

Late payments are usually not reported until they are at least 30 days past due. However, once that late payment is reported it can remain on your credit report for up to 7 years.

Collections

When a lender feels there is no hope of collecting a debt, they turn it over to an attorney or a collection agency for collection. The law limits the reporting of collection debts to 7 years from the time of last activity. It’s important to be aware of how this works, so you can manage a collection account on your credit report favorably.

A good example of the time of last activity would be an auto loan that had been turned over for collections 6½ years ago, and for some reason the debtor wanted to make a deal with the collection agency to pay it off now at a discounted price. The time of last activity then would be updated to the current pay off date, and the 7 years of reporting would start all over from then. (even though the debt had been paid off).

Also, you should be aware of a devious practice used by some collection agencies. Some agencies, when they are coming to the end of the 7 year period, will sell the debt for pennies on the dollar to another collection agency. Since the sale date to the new collection agency becomes the date of last activity for that account, the 7 years of reporting clock starts all over.

For this reason, anyone having a collection account on their record should monitor it closely. It’s not all that uncommon for an unmonitored credit report to have a collection account being reported for 20 years or longer.

Inquires

There are many times when you personally, or a creditor, a lender, an employer or potential employer, or a rental company asks for your credit report. These are called inquires and can stay on your credit report for 2 to 3 years.

If you apply for new credit, the inquire it generates is reported and will stay on your credit report for 2 to 3 years.

You will have multiple inquires when you are shopping for a particular type of loan. A home loan or a car loan for example. Even though there are multiple inquires showing up on your credit report, it should present no problem because it should be apparent that you only want one loan for the car or for the home. Try to confine your shopping period to a one or two week period when shopping for loans, so as make it clear to anyone pulling your report that you are in fact only after one loan. These inquires will stay on your credit report for 2 to 3 years.

Anytime you personally request or purchase a copy of your own credit report, it is not reported.

Your current creditors (especially credit card companies) will periodically check your credit reports to monitor your credit activity. They don’t want to be surprised if you are starting to have payment problems with other lenders or are going deeper in debt. These monitoring inquires also are not reported.

Public Record

Public record information includes any bankruptcies, foreclosures, judgments or tax liens against you.

Bankruptcies and foreclosures – Bankruptcies and foreclosures stay on the public record for 10 years.

Judgments – Judgments stay on your credit report for 7 years. Judgments are created when someone takes you to court in order to be paid for a debt, a loss or an injury. For example, if you fail to pay a medical bill, you could be sued for damages. If you lose the case, the winner receives a judgment against you, which means they may pursue strict measures against you in order to collect the debt. They may garnishee your wages or seize assets of yours.

Tax liens - If you do not pay your property taxes, the state can impose a tax lien on your property. If the lien is paid in full, it will remain on your record for 7 years. If the lien is not paid, it can remain on your credit report indefinitely

The way to clean derogatory information off your credit reports quickly and easily is to be informed. Terry Price helps you through the maze so you can raise your credit score 100 to 200 points in 90 days or less.

Credit Bureaus Who They Are and What They Do?

More than a century ago, merchants began offering credit to their customers. As time went on, it became clear that merchants needed a method for evaluating the credit worthiness of their customers in order to minimize their risks. Small retailers worked together and traded information about their customers’ financial habits – this was the beginning of the modern credit bureaus.

Eventually, these small groups of retailers grew into credit bureaus and those bureaus joined together around the country. The bureaus were known as credit reporting agencies or CRAs.

In the 1960’s, CRAs could share financial information about consumers with lenders and creditors but not with the consumers themselves. The agencies could also report on consumers’ lifestyles, including their drinking habits, how they were perceived by their neighbors, and so on.

The Fair Credit Reporting Act (FCRA) was passed in 1971 to give consumers a way to protect themselves from inaccurate information in their reports. The law also limited access to consumers’ reports, to people or companies that had a legitimate need to see them. It also allowed consumers access to their reports and the right to dispute information in them. In addition, it set limits for how long negative information could remain on the report.

Credit Reporting Process

There are small CRAs located throughout the country. Each of the small CRAs collect credit information for a specific area of the country. They report their information directly to one or more of the major Credit Reporting Bureaus, where the information is stored. Lenders then pull credit reports from one or all of the three bureaus as needed. The three major Credit Reporting Bureaus in the United States are: Experian, Equifax, and TransUnion.

Although some lenders do not report loan details or payment history to credit bureaus, most do. Some lenders only report to the credit bureau in their local region, and some report to all three of the major bureaus. Because credit information is not reported equally to all bureaus, information in each bureau will be different.

These differences in the information credit bureaus receive explain why there are differences in credit scores reported by each bureau. Experian’s records may show you with a 750 score while Equifax’s records may show a 720 score

Any lender that reports to one or more bureaus does so on a regular basis. Most lenders update credit information every 30 days, while some may report every other month or even quarterly.

When a credit report is drawn, it is a picture of the consumers’ credit history up to the present moment. Since new information is reported regularly, it can alter the credit picture a little or dramatically, depending on the most recent activity. Consequently, because of the fluctuations in a persons credit score, lenders pull credit reports each time a person applies for credit.

For some shocking insights into the inner workings of credit bureaus, and how you can protect yourself and your credit scores from inaccurate information in your files, read this carefully.

The Two Ways You Rebuild Or Improve Your Credit Scores Are By…

1. Cleaning derogatory information off your credit reports
2. Using new (and old) credit wisely and responsibly

You will find a multitude of lenders that want to work with you (even if you have horrible credit scores) to help you rebuild your credit.

This is Important!

As you work your credit rebuilding plan, keep this in mind; lenders place the most weight on your current history. They know you had trouble in the past, but they want to see how you are handling your credit responsibilities now.

Six Step Credit Rebuilding Plan By Using New Credit

1. You need a budget so you can make intelligent decisions about how to go about rebuilding your credit. Be sure to allow for monthly payments for new credit debt. You must go into debt in order to build a good history of responsible credit management.

2. Open one or two secured credit card accounts. Secured credit cards are the easiest to open and are reported to the credit bureaus. You determine the credit limit on the cards by making a deposit with the credit card company. Your deposit is your credit limit. After a 6 to 12 month history of responsible use with the card, you can ask for your deposit back and the card will revert to a regular un-secured card.

3. Don’t pay off the balance every month. Your goal is to build a solid payment history of timely monthly payments. It’s better for your credit scores if you always leave a balance on the card, even if it’s a small balance.

4. Never close a credit card account. One measure used in determining credit scores is your debt to high balance ratio. Lenders want to see 30%, or less, debt to limit ratio. If you have a card with a limit of $1,000, and your balance is $850, your debt to limit ratio is 85% ($850 divided by $1,000). But if you also had another card with a $5,000 limit and a zero balance, your total debt would be $850 and your total high limit available credit would be $6,000 ($1,000 plus $5,000). Your total debt to high limit ratio would then be 14% ($850 divided by $6,000). If you had previously closed your un-used card with the $5,000 limit, instead of a 14% ratio, you would be looking really bad with an 85% debt to limit ratio.

5. Open different kinds of credit lines. The more different types of credit you have, the more credit bureaus reward you with better scores. Someone with a credit card or two, a department store credit line, an auto loan, a bank loan, and a mortgage payment shows they are able to handle various types of credit responsibly. Don’t limit yourself to just credit cards. One suggestion to add a new credit line would be to get a secured bank loan. Do this by opening a savings account with the bank, then take out a new loan using the savings account is security for the loan. The bank has no risk and will be happy to make the loan.

6. Never take on more debt than you can handle comfortably. This is the most important step of all and is why a budget is so important. The goal is to rebuild your credit, not to bury you in debt you can’t handle. Be careful to not get over extended. Always leave a cushion for savings and emergencies. Be wise!

Cleaning derogatory information off your credit reports

The best and fastest way to increase your credit score is to get rid of any and all derogatory information in your credit files. The best way to do that is to learn from an expert, the proper steps to take in order to insure success.

Terry Price has been working in the credit repair field since 1994, and is an expert in guiding people through the credit repair maze. His course, “Credit Secrets Bible” is considered by many to be the definitive guide in showing people how to legally, quickly and easily repair their own credit reports.

Terry’s course is written in an easy to understand format, with example after example to explain each step of the process Terry says that even a fifth grader could follow it with no problem.

Raise your credit scores 100 to 250 points FAST!

Free Credit Reports

People are advised to check their reports regularly as credit report errors are notoriously common. A study conducted in 2004 by the National Association of State Public Interest Research Groups found nearly 80% of credit reports contained some type of error.

These errors ranged from listing the wrong date of birth to not listing current credit accounts to listing some accounts multiple times. These errors can negatively affect your credit score so finding them and correcting them is essential to maintaining your good credit rating.

Free Credit Reports

The three major credit-reporting agencies, Equifax, TransUnion and Experian, are each required by law to provide consumers a free copy of their credit report once every 12 months.

Do not go to the three credit bureaus individually

The three major credit-reporting agencies have set up a central website, a toll-free telephone number, and a mailing address through which you can order your free annual report.

Note that the reports are not sent automatically. In order to receive your free report, you must request them in order to receive them.

These are the three ways you can order your free report:

• AnnualCreditReport.com, is the only authorized source for people to access their free annual credit report online.

• Or, you may phone (877) 322-8228.

• The third way to obtain your free annual report is to mail a written request to:

Annual Credit Report Request Service
P.O. Box 105281
Atlanta, GA 30348-5281.

If you have already received your free report for this year, you must order new reports from each bureau individually. You will be charged a small fee for each report. Their addresses are:

Experian
PO Box 740241
Atlanta, GA 30374

Equifax
PO Box 2002
Allen, TX 75013

TransUnion
PO Box 2000
Chester, PA 19022

Another option would be to sign up for a monthly credit report service. With these services, you receive your updated credit reports from each bureau every month, plus you get daily monitoring of your credit scores and credit activity on your three accounts. You also receive your current FICO scores from each bureau.

Your FICO scores are a numerical number assigned by the bureaus that reflect your creditworthiness as a grade or score. This is the score lenders use when evaluating whether or not to issue a loan and what interest rate to charge you. The higher the score, the better chance of getting the loan and the lower the interest rate you will pay over the life of the loan.

The cost of a service like this is minimal and is the absolute best way to keep on top of your credit picture. An added benefit is that the chance of your Identity being stolen is practically nonexistent because of the constant monitoring of your credit files. One of the best company’s offering this service is CreditDotCom.You can sign up for your service here.

If you need help, tips, suggestions, or ideas on the best and easiest ways to increase your credit scores, without costing you an arm and a leg, get more credit booster ideas here..